03/11/2025
( From Michael ) - Wow! Finding the time to write here has been harder and harder, but this is where I always like to let go, so here we go!
So Paola and I just returned from a two-week trip to Argentina and Uruguay. Let's start with how this came to be! Last year (or was it the year before?) Maggie had been home with her family. She is from Uruguay. When she came back to Italy, I picked her up. I think I may have jokingly said "So do we have a trip ready?" Anyway, she was SUPER excited, and said she had been looking around and thinking how incredibly CDV this would be. And she started talking to all of her family... and and and. Well, she said she was sure she could put something amazing together. AND SHE DID.
This past 2024 season we spoke about it frequently, and Maggie worked on it when she had time. Before we knew it, this thing was a full on "GO" for scouting. Paola and I bought our tickets, Maggie kept planning, and away we went. We were super excited as well, because we finally got to meet Maggie's mom last autumn in Soriano, and absolutely adore her!
So we embarked on our flight to Montevideo, which sits right across the river from Buenos Aires, Argentina. Maggie picked us up with her friend SofĂa. Yeah, VERY COOL!!!! Love her! And we went to dinner. Now, for some reason my phone didn't change from eastern time, so I really had no idea we were sitting down at dinner at midnight, but the steak was awesome and the place was so cool! I really had no idea what to expect for Montevideo, but wow! I kinda felt like we were in Italy. Really nice city for sure!
After dinner, MUST SLEEP. Maggie and Sofia brought us to our hotel (Very nice). I am not going to lie... this was my first time below the equator, so I had to see for myself that the water drains counter-clockwise. Check!
Then I fell asleep in about 2.4 seconds. Did I mention how good the steak was? I mean, it is Uruguay, right?
The next morning we were picked up by Maggie and Jorgito, and we started our drive out of the city for the drive to PaysandĂș, the town Maggie grew up in. Lots of Mate on the way and I quickly became happy we brought our own portable chagrining espresso machine. Love Mate, but dude! Coffee is life!
So PaysandĂș... Small, rural... and very "pinch yourself, because I know there are no tourists here". It is a small city, mostly agrarian. We got checked into our hotel. Not as nice as the one in Montevideo, but Nice. Clean. Simple. Small town, right? Still, the bed was awesome, the room was beautiful, and the air conditioning worked very well. Did I mention February is full summer there. Yeah, that!
Next we were told that we were invited to a wedding. HUH? Sure, Maggie's cousin was getting married and we were absolutely expected to be at the wedding. We had been in South America for less than 24 hours, and we were at a wedding. Like, seriously! It was done at Maggie's uncle's house (Gordo), and I learned that this was more of a pre-wedding wedding. The big one was happening weeks later, so there were only about 60 or 70 of Maggie's closest family at THIS one.
Gordo's place is a ranch (Yes, he is a Gaucho), and the property looked like something plucked straight out of a dream world. The landscape was breathtaking, the people were laughing, and... oh, look at those wild horses running over there! And then the sunset. It was like something on special order for an artist to paint the most beautiful sunset in the world!
And just over there was a fire with a huge grill on it, flames roaring and oh so much meat. The family was having an "Asado". Do I need to say more? If I do, you may fly down there right now!
And then the DJ started up, and the dancing began. LOTS of it, and it was obvious that this was going to be an all-nighter! Some of Maggie's cousins got me and Paola on the dance floor as we jammed away to modern Uruguayan dance music (Very good!!), and they quickly learned what an awful dancer I am! But then there was tons of conversation as we met everyone, and we fell in love with the whole family! But alas, a little jet lagged, we did need some sleep so Maggie dropped us off before returning for the all-nighter.
The next few days were really all about family and this amazing Uruguayan countryside lifestyle. Surely when you think of the word "Gaucho" you think of a steakhouse. But a Gaucho is essentially an Argentine or Uruguayan cowboy... but with their own unique traditions. Did I mention that Jorgito is a Gaucho (and a vet) and has a ranch with countless wild horses, cattle, chicken, etc? Oh, did I mention that Jorge, Maggie's dad is ALSO a Gaucho (and a doctor) with his ranch full of wild horses, cartel, chicken, sheep, etc.)?
We spent a great deal of time with the whole family. Took a horseback ride on one of the TAME horses, did another Asado at Maggie's dad's house, herded some cattle and sheep with Jorgito, did ANOTHR Asado at Jorgito's house, and one day made empanadas with Gladys at Jorge's house --- Literally the most wonderful and sweet abuela you will ever meet. And those empanadas? Let's just say I have never in my life tasted such amazing empanadas!
It was Carnaval time, and here it was all about a pared of "candombe" (Afro-Uruguayan drumming and dance). It was amazing to see how a smaller city does this, and really come together. The costumes were wonderful, the drumming was loud, and the dancing... unique :-)
There is so much more I could go on forever, but after few days we needed to leave. But aside from the beauty and wonder of WHERE we were, the hospitality and warmth of Maggie's family was enchanting. Everything I so love about Italy, but in Spanish.
Not gonna lie... I did NOT want to leave PaysandĂș, but we needed to move on. Off to Buenos Aires with Maggie and Jorgito. We made our way there for a few days, met MORE friends, and got the Buenos Aires experience. Various neighborhoods were so uniquely beautiful, but then others I would have sworn I was in Rome. Aside from the stuff that everyone does there,
I think the highlight for me was the Milonga. Look at it this way: If you do a tour in Buenos Aires, you can pretty much be guaranteed you will have a Tango show in the mix. Did we go to a Tango show? Of course not! In reality, Tango is just something people "do". They go to a Milonga (a dance hall where people gather to dance tango). These are generally small local places with tables arranged around a central dance floor, all all understand the etiquette of tango culture). Nt a show, the actual local culture. And of course Maggie has a friend who tried to tech me to tango (Epic fail), but oh so amazing!!!!
My other highlights were the food, the street culture and the markets. The street food in Boca was especially amazing!!!
Again, I cannot even begin to go through it all, but AWESOME! I was still missing PaysandĂș.
Finally we made our way back to Montevideo, and even more of Maggie's friends AND HER MOM!!!! We just fell in love with Montevideo! It is such a great city, and best of all, it was still Carnaval time there. Carnaval (Like Mardis Gras) in Uruguay is a celebration that lasts 40 days, making it the longest Carnaval in the world. At its heart are "murgas", dynamic performing group who blend powerful choral singing with theatrical elements and percussion... and SO MUCH COLOR! Murgas are at the heart of the Uruguayan spirit. Just so fun!!!!
We met with some of them, and I was so enchanted by their performances. Apparently the songs and comedy were quite political, but I have yet to involve myself in Uruguayan politics :-).
One day we made our way to Punta del Este. Basically this is the Saint Tropez of South America. Beautiful, upscale and different. Most notably, we made our way to a breathtaking beach there that advertised the most beautiful sunset in the world. So for sure when we do trips here we will have some sunset cocktails... and yes, the sunset was breathtaking, but nothing compared to the sunsets we had at Gordo's ranch!
And on the final day we chose where we will stay in Montevideo with groups, and all I can say it... O - M - G !
In the end, we were absolutely enchanted with Argentina and Uruguay, most of all... the people!
So is CDV going to do this? Oh yeah! This is locked in! It is going to be an amazing experience. We are thinking 13 days to do this right. And it is going to be an emotional roller coaster. One day you will be in Ana amazing historic upscale hotel on the beach, and the next day you will be in a simple countryside inn. One day you will be dining in one of the best steak houses in Argentina, and the next you will be grilling up an Asado on a remote ranch. One day you will be learning Tango in a Milonga, and another day we will be traveling to performances with a local murgas group... and one day we will be making empanadas in a country home, and yet another we will be making "alfajores" with amazing dulce de leche in the city. And all along, with Maggie and her AMAZING family!!!!
When? Carnaval! Late January to Mid February.