25/11/2021
𝗕𝗿𝗲𝗮𝗸𝗳𝗮𝘀𝘁 𝗼𝗳 𝗖𝗵𝗮𝗺𝗽𝗶𝗼𝗻𝘀, 𝗔𝗻𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗰𝗵/𝗔𝗻𝘁𝗮𝗸𝘆𝗮 𝗯𝗮𝘇𝗮𝗮𝗿
𝗦𝗘 𝗧𝘂𝗿𝗸𝗲𝘆 𝗿𝗲𝘀𝗲𝗮𝗿𝗰𝗵, 𝗝𝘂𝗹𝘆
The start to my southeast Turkey research hit a bit of a snag when I caught a 24 hr bug. And with a lot of ground (or plates of food) to cover after being out of commission for a day, the only way to right the ship was to eat myself one hell of a breakfast before we had to depart Antakya.
At the indoor bazaar, these types of kebab shops are a combo of butchery and cafe. You can watch them chop up meat for a kebab and the one we choose, as it is special to the Hatay region, is a Tepsi kebab. Tepsi is the Turkish word for “tray” and that’s what they cook it it after spreading out the meat in what looks to be a pizza-style dish. They top it with big wedges of tomato, pepper and onion. Then it gets baked in a wood-fired oven before appearing at your table piping hot and oozing juices. I wasn’t sure if my stomach was ready for this but with that aroma and it still sizzling on the plate, there was no way I wasn’t going to just dive right in. And after inhaling my first Tepsi, I’d say I was back to 100%.
Next up was hunt for Antioch’s best humus and to try out something called Bakla, a puree of broad beans (cooked over fire first for 14 hours!), garlic, tahini and parsley. We found Zeydi a few stalls down in the bazaar. I got to watch him literally ‘whip up’ these two trademark mezze at lightning speed. The business sign over the shop says “Usta”, which means someone who mastered a skill. And he definitely mastered that humus making skill. It was so smooth, so light, so flavorful. And still to this day, four months after my humus enlightenment with Zeydi, it is pretty damn hard for me to excited to eat this dish anywhere else.