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06/04/2025
The Tile-roofed Bridge – A Reminiscence of Bygone Days
Thanh Toan Tiled Bridge – A Memory of a Bygone Era
In the treasure trove of Hue's folk literature, there is a saying:
"Who returns to Thanh Toan bridge,
Let me go with the crowd for joy."
This folk verse illustrates how difficult the journey to Thanh Toan Tiled Bridge used to be. In the early 20th century, Mr. R. Orband and H. Lebreton from the Association of Friends of Old Hue (BAVH) took a rickshaw from the Khâm Office (now the University of Education), passed Đập Đá heading toward Thuận An. At Vỹ Dạ Market, they turned right, crossed Ông Thượng Bridge to Lại Thế Village, reached Mộc Hàn Wharf, followed the river past the villages of Ngọc Anh, Chiết Bi, Dưỡng Mong, Vinh Vệ, Phúc Linh, Thanh Lam, Sam Market, and finally arrived at Sư Lỗ Village. From there, they left the river, crossed a field of about 1.5km, then abandoned the rickshaw and walked another 100 meters to the riverbank where the Thanh Toan Tiled Bridge crossed a small canal (called hói in the Hue dialect, referring to a small man-made stream).
Today, few people follow that path. One can reach Vỹ Dạ Market, turn right onto Tùng Thiện Vương Street, cross the Thủy Văn Village Bridge, then turn left and follow the river past Xuân Hòa, Công Lương, Dã Lê Villages to the Quốc Ân Temple, which worships Nguyễn Phúc Hiệp – a talented general during the Trịnh–Nguyễn Civil War (also home to the ancestral temple of Tôn Thất Thuyết – a general of the Tự Đức reign), located in the center of Vân Thê Village. A concrete road beside the temple cuts through the village and leads straight to Thanh Toan Bridge. But this route is still a bit complicated. Nowadays, people travel more conveniently via An Cựu Market to Phát Lát Gate, then turn left and drive smoothly along a paved road. The distance from the city center to the bridge is about 8 km.
Thanh Toan Tiled Bridge is located in Thanh Toan Village, Phú Vang District. During the Minh Mạng era, the land of Phú Vang and Phú Lộc Districts was merged into Hương Thủy District, so the bridge belonged to Hương Thủy. Due to a royal naming taboo (the name Thanh Toan matched that of a Nguyễn dynasty emperor), the village name was changed to Thanh Thủy, and the bridge was renamed accordingly. However, locals still refer to it as Thanh Toan Tiled Bridge.
The bridge is of the “thượng gia, hạ kiều” architectural style – a house on top, and a bridge below. Originally, the bridge measured 18.5 meters long and 5.82 meters wide, built on six rows of ironwood pillars, divided into three sections. The middle section was raised to allow boats to pass underneath, while the two ends sloped gently to rest on the banks. In the middle section, a closed wooden partition houses an altar dedicated to Madam Trần Thị Đạo, who funded the construction of the bridge in the mid-18th century. The bridge’s railings are open with long benches for travelers and locals to rest and cool off during hot days; poets would often sit here for inspiration. The roof is tiled, hence the name “Tiled Bridge.” The BAVH journal translated it as “Le Pont couvert en tuilles” or “Le Pont couvert de Thanh Thủy.” The roof and entrances at both ends are made of brick, plastered with lime, adorned with dragons and phoenixes, and inlaid with colorful couplets.
The founder of the Thanh Toan Tiled Bridge was Madam Trần Thị Đạo, a sixth-generation descendant of one of the 12 founders of Thanh Thủy (formerly Thanh Toan) Village. She was the wife of a high-ranking official overseeing the three districts of Hương Trà, Phú Vinh, and Quảng Điền under King Lê after the Trịnh army captured Phú Xuân in early 1775. For unknown reasons, historical records do not mention her husband's name. Thanks to his position, she was bestowed the noble title: Special Advancement, National Support, General of the Imperial Guards, Deputy Commander. According to a royal decree dated the 37th year of King Cảnh Hưng’s reign (1776), the bridge was constructed in that year. The decree reads:
“Madam Trần Thị Đạo, native of Thanh Toan Village, a virtuous woman whose life gained the admiration of many. She is more deserving of praise than anyone. Her actions benefited the village (thanks to her, the king exempted the villagers from corvée and taxes), and people will forever remember her. This royal decree is to acknowledge the court’s commendation for the builder of the tiled bridge and to encourage others to follow her generous example.”
(According to Hương Thủy Chronicle, Thuận Hóa Publishing House, 1998, p.324–325)
The Thanh Toan Tiled Bridge is over 230 years old. Despite many natural disasters, it has retained its original form. According to both historical and oral sources, it has undergone several restorations. The first was in 1844 (the 4th year of Thiệu Trị reign) after it was severely damaged by floods. Villagers pooled funds for the repairs, completed in the second month of 1847 (7th year of Thiệu Trị reign), with the work commemorated on the bridge pillars. The second restoration followed the devastating storm on September 11, 1904 (Year of the Dragon), when the bridge collapsed and was rebuilt by the villagers. Notably, the dimensions were slightly reduced: length decreased to 16.85m (from 18.75m), width to 4.63m (from 5.82m). The repair cost 950 đồng (700 from the villagers, 250 from the state), indicating that the bridge had already been considered a national monument. The third restoration was in 1956, the fourth in 1971, and the most recent one in 1991.
Although smaller and built later than Lai Viễn Bridge (Japanese Bridge in Hội An), Thanh Toan Tiled Bridge is a rare heritage site born during the Lê Dynasty, thus drawing historical interest. The BAVH journal wrote about it twice, in 1917 and 1933.
Thanh Toan Tiled Bridge not only served as a means for villagers to cross but also provided a place to rest and enjoy the breeze. It remains a cherished relic passed down to future generations. At the entrance to the bridge from Thanh Thủy Market, one finds a pair of porcelain inlaid couplets. Though the calligraphy is not refined, the meaning is profound:
Original (Sino-Vietnamese):
Kiệt cẩu thiên thu thắng tích
Ngõa kiều mỹ cảnh cựu quy mô
Translation:
The exceptional bridge – a scenic relic of a thousand years,
The tiled bridge – a beautiful landscape of ancient design.
Thanh Toan Tiled Bridge was officially recognized as a National Architectural and Artistic Monument by the Ministry of Culture, Sports, and Tourism on July 14, 1990.
