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Our man in Vietnam Vietnam is vibrant, chaotic, colourful and unforgettable. From bustling streets to hidden gems: the sights, flavours, and stories from my time living here.

Grab your virtual backpack and let’s explore!

If you’re in Hội An or Da Nang at the moment, it’s pretty likely you’ll seen tree pruning going on. If you’ve wondered w...
21/09/2026

If you’re in Hội An or Da Nang at the moment, it’s pretty likely you’ll seen tree pruning going on.
If you’ve wondered why, well, wonder no more.

It’s standard local practice towards the end of the year, and the logic is super practical. It’s a whole lot easier to chop off those heavy branches now than it is to dig them out of a living room, front porch, or power lines after a massive squall rolls through. When the strong weather systems hit, those big leafy canopies basically turn into sails. Trimming them right back gives the trees a fighting chance and keeps local rooves intact.

It’s interesting about the timing this year, though. We’re already into the final stretch of September and the chainsaws are only just starting up. In previous years, you would see crews out in full force as early as late July. Anyone around in late 2020 probably remembers the three monster storm systems that tore through the Central Vietnam area.

Still, nature loves to keep us on our toes in Central Vietnam, so even with a late start, getting those branches down before the final quarter rains kick in is always a smart play.

Anecdotally, starting this late feels like a sign that the people who make these decisions aren't expecting the end-of-year weather to hit quite as hard or fast this time around, especially with El Niño keeping things on the drier side.

Fingers crossed.




Independence Day in Vietnam! It is a day of remembrance.Step outside anywhere in the country, and you'll see a sea of re...
02/09/2026

Independence Day in Vietnam! It is a day of remembrance.

Step outside anywhere in the country, and you'll see a sea of red and yellow, with national flags flying everywhere.

September 2nd is easily one of the most significant dates on the calendar, marked by celebrations and national pride.

Today marks the anniversary of September 2nd, 1945, when President Ho Chi Minh—affectionately known as Uncle Ho—stood before hundreds of thousands in Hanoi’s Ba Dinh Square to read the Declaration of Independence.

His journey to that moment was defined by years of single-minded dedication. From petitioning for self-determination in Paris after the First World War to trying to end foreign colonial rule at the close of the Second, his aim never changed.
Despite the long fight against French rule—which originally began with France’s 1858 invasion in Tourane/Da Nang and was driven by European competition for resources (particularly rubber in this country)—Uncle Ho remained focused on one goal: the right of the Vietnamese people to govern their own destiny.

Though he initially sought support from the West, the path he forged secured the nation's independence and permanently shaped its future. Uncle Ho remains the architect of modern Vietnam, a leader whose vision gave a nation its voice.

If you want to learn more about what today is all about, here is the link to a short video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-KOTPxIC1-Y

Travel safe, wherever you land.

If you're flying within Vietnam from July 1 this year, take note of new rules for power banks; they must be carried in ...
26/06/2026

If you're flying within Vietnam from July 1 this year, take note of new rules for power banks; they must be carried in your hand luggage, with a maximum of two per passenger.
Power banks cannot be charged during the flight or used to charge other devices onboard.

Also, if you or a family member accidentally drops a mobile phone or power bank into the aircraft seat mechanism, do not try to retrieve it yourself.
Alert a flight attendant immediately.
Cabin crew are specially trained to safely recover these items and help prevent the risk of a battery fire.

Travel safe, wherever you land.

Skeletons in Hoi An’s Countryside: Abandoned Brick KilnsFor me, the best part of Hoi An is crossing the river into the c...
09/06/2026

Skeletons in Hoi An’s Countryside: Abandoned Brick Kilns
For me, the best part of Hoi An is crossing the river into the countryside and getting away from the tourists.
Flat, easy riding if you’re on a bicycle.
You quickly realise how touristy Ancient Town feels by comparison. Out here, life moves slowly—much as it has for centuries.

When people picture Vietnam, they often imagine open space, rice paddies and water buffalo. If you want to see that version of Hoi An, cross the river.

I’ve cycled and scootered these roads hundreds of times. It always feels different, and I still love it. For a glimpse of real local life, this is where to go—and most tourists never see it.
Go early if you can. Villages are quiet, locals are tending crops, and the countryside feels at its best.

Then you’ll spot them—tall brick towers. They look like ancient ruins, but they’re actually abandoned brick kilns from Hoi An’s recent past.

Why were they abandoned?
Until about a decade ago, brickmaking was a major local industry. Families built these 10-metre-high kilns using local clay, coal and rice husks.
They sit empty because of two major changes:
• Pollution bans: Traditional kilns created thick smoke that polluted the air and damaged rice crops. Between 2017 and 2020, kilns near residential areas were shut down.
• New building materials: Vietnam shifted to eco-friendly “unbaked” materials and introduced protections on agricultural topsoil, cutting off the clay supply.

Built to last, the kilns remain—soot-stained landmarks slowly being reclaimed by nature.

How to see them
Grab a bicycle or scooter, cross the Cam Kim Bridge, and wander through the rice field paths.

One kiln has found a second life. In Duy Vinh, you’ll find “Lò Gạch Cũ” (The Old Brick Kiln), where locals restored the structure, added a winding bamboo walkway through the paddies, and opened a café.

If you want to experience Hoi An beyond the lanterns and tailor shops, cross the river and find the kilns.

You won’t regret it.

Travel safe, wherever you land.

If it ain't broke then don't try to fix it.As quickly as Vietnam is modernising, there are still plenty of things that h...
31/05/2026

If it ain't broke then don't try to fix it.

As quickly as Vietnam is modernising, there are still plenty of things that have remained unchanged for centuries.

If you are on the beach at An Bang or My Khe early in the morning, or looking out towards the horizon after dark, you are likely to spot these distinctive boats.

To me, they seem to defy the laws of physics, but they’re part of a fishing system that has been used successfully for generations.

This is a traditional Vietnamese lift-net fishing boat (lưới nâng).

Lift-net fishing dates back centuries across Southeast Asia.
Originally, these nets, known as rớ, were fixed structures in rivers and estuaries. Freshwater versions can still be seen throughout the region, nets supported by long bamboo legs.
Over time, coastal fishermen adapted the technique for use at sea by mounting the lifting mechanism directly onto boats.

The process is simple.
Long outriggers support a large horizontal net, which is lowered just beneath the surface. At night, powerful lights suspended above the water attract schools of light-seeking marine life, including glass shrimp, anchovies and squid. Once enough of the catch has gathered above the net, the crew uses a system of winches and pulleys to raise the framework. As the net rises, its shape funnels the catch into a deep pocket alongside the hull. The fish and shrimp are then transferred into storage holds with hand-held scoop nets or released directly into ice boxes through an opening at the bottom of the net.

Unlike deep-sea trawlers, which drag heavy nets across the seabed and can damage coral reefs and other marine habitats, lift-net boats operate entirely within the upper water column. They catch only what is attracted to the lights, making them a relatively low-impact and sustainable fishing method that has helped support coastal communities for centuries.

Travel safe, wherever you land.

01/04/2026

Sunrise at An Bang Beach
We live about 300 metres from the beach, and at 5:45am, when we were arriving, other locals were heading home, smiling and saying “good afternoon”.

That’s how it is here.
Early start, a break in the middle of the day once the heat kicks in, then back into it.

The beach is full of life, early. People walking, swimming, playing football, volleyball, badminton. You’ll see human speed bumps, people buried in the sand. It may seem unusual, but there is a strong local belief in the restorative properties of the sand at this beach.

The sea isn’t just for a swim either. For a couple of days, shrimp larvae have been running along the shore. You’ll see people wading in and scooping them up with whatever they have, from plastic bags to buckets and even t-shirts.
They’re used in all sorts of ways, cooked fresh into simple soups, stir-fried with garlic and herbs, or fermented into shrimp paste, which is a staple across the country, or dried and used as a seasoning or topping.
Nothing goes to waste.

No bag limits.
No fishing license needed.

It’s a great way to start the day, watching the sun come up and seeing the whole community out doing the same thing.
By the evening, they’ll be back again doing it all over.

Travel safe, wherever you land.

In a quiet alley (kiet) in Hoi An, this isn't a satellite dish—it’s a parabolic solar cooker, a brilliant piece of low-t...
12/03/2026

In a quiet alley (kiet) in Hoi An, this isn't a satellite dish—it’s a parabolic solar cooker, a brilliant piece of low-tech engineering that’s been boiling water for years without a single software update.

How It Works (The "Death Ray" Science)
The dish's curved shape acts like a giant magnifying glass. It bounces every sunbeam hitting its 1.5-meter surface toward a single focal point.

By placing a matte-black (for max heat absorption) kettle at that exact spot, you’re concentrating enough energy to match a 1,500W electric burner. It’s basically a solar-powered laser beam aimed at your morning cuppa.

The Tea Timeline
Under the intense Vietnam sun, this setup can be incredibly fast:
Peak Summer Sun: 10–15 minutes
Hazy/Partly Cloudy: 20–35 minutes
Winter/Low Sun: 45+ minutes
Weather like this morning: 2027 is a fair bet.

The Catch?
You have to "track" the sun.
If the dish is even a few degrees off-target, the focal point misses the kettle and you’re left with lukewarm water. You also need to keep any strong breezes off it, or the heat just blows away.

Fun Fact: The focal point gets hot enough to ignite wood or melt plastic instantly. It’s effective, sustainable, and just a little bit dangerous.

17/02/2026

Ghosts in the Machine
I meant for this to go live yesterday, on the eve of Tết. Instead, thanks to a few editing gremlins, it’s appearing on the day itself.
So let’s shift the focus slightly.

Tết is here.

Today, markets around the country are closed.
Here in Hội An, you will still find a bit of activity around Chợ Hội An, the central riverside market in the Ancient Town, but elsewhere the shutters are down. That will remain the case for the next three days.

Yesterday, though, was another story entirely.
The markets were heaving.
We live at An Bàng Beach, just off of Lạc Long Quân, the main coastal road between Đà Nẵng and Hội An.

The local market is around the corner from our back gate, so I took a walk and it was chaos.
Extra stalls set up.
Scooters wedged into every available gap.
Everyone buying in bulk.

Over the next few days, homes will see a steady stream of friends and family. If you open your doors, you feed and water whoever arrives, so cupboards and fridges must be well stocked.
Note to self: I need more Huda.

Tết is the most important time of year for the Vietnamese. It is about renewal and fresh starts. Anything that can be replaced or refreshed usually is. Towels, helmets, shoes, clothes and housewares — if it can be made to look new, it will be. The past fortnight has been a whirlwind of painting, scrubbing, repairing and cleaning. Homes polished, gardens tidied.

The scale of movement across the country is extraordinary. It’s estimated that between 10 and 12 million people — roughly a tenth of the population — are on the move, travelling from cities and industrial zones back to their hometowns. It’s the single largest annual migration in the country. On top of that, hundreds of thousands of overseas Vietnamese, the Viet Kieu, return from around the world.
The pull of home and family is incredibly strong.

It is not uncommon to hear of people walking away from jobs or forfeiting bonuses rather than miss the reunion. They choose family over financial reward, confident they will find work again later.
That is how important these days are.
Family is everything.

So here we are. The Year of the Horse, or more specifically, The Year of the Fire Horse, has begun.

The markets are quiet, the houses are gleaming and the roads are chockers.

However you are celebrating, I wish you, your family and your friends a happy new year filled with good health and prosperity.

Một, hai, ba, dzo — and crank the karaoke.

The End of Gold Shop Money ExchangeIn my experience, Vietnamese have always “coloured outside the lines”.Rules existed, ...
08/02/2026

The End of Gold Shop Money Exchange

In my experience, Vietnamese have always “coloured outside the lines”.
Rules existed, but reality is often different.

Money exchange was a perfect example.
For years, travelers, expats and locals skipped the banks and went straight to gold shops.
Trusted, efficient, and almost always offered better rates, faster service, and less hassle than legal options. No paperwork. No queues. No fuss.

It was an open secret.

That era is gone.

Gold shops were never legally allowed to exchange foreign currency unless they held a licence. For a long time enforcement was light, and the system worked.

Recently, that has changed. Authorities are now actively enforcing long-standing foreign exchange regulations, with tougher penalties tied to gold and currency trading. Inspections are more frequent, fines are higher, and the risk to businesses is real. As a result, most gold shops have stopped changing money altogether. What once operated in a legal grey zone has been firmly shut down.

Foreign currency can now only be legally exchanged at banks or licensed exchange counters, usually in large hotels, airports, or tourist areas. These options are slower, more bureaucratic, and typically offer worse rates than gold shops.
Banks may require passports, operate limited hours, and charge service fees.

For anyone used to Vietnam’s informal efficiency, it’s a noticeable shift.

So how do you handle money in Vietnam now?
ATMs have become the most efficient option. They are widespread, and withdrawing VND directly usually delivers a better rate than cash exchange. Withdraw VND, not your home currency, and expect a small local ATM fee. Withdrawing larger amounts less often helps keep those fees down.

Travel-friendly debit cards like Wise make life easier. These cards generally use near real mid-market exchange rates, have transparent fees, and work well for both ATM withdrawals and card payments.
Carry a backup debit card in case one isn’t accepted.

For USD/EUR, licensed exchange counters remain.
Typically found in large hotels or tourist centres and clearly displaying authorisation to exchange foreign currency.
Clean, new notes matter.
Always ask the rate before handing over cash.

Airport rates are usually poor.

Banks remain the fallback option.
They’re legal, slower, paperwork-heavy, and often offer the worst rates. Best used if cards fail or you need to exchange a large amount formally.
Take your passport!

The gold shop workaround is gone, and money exchange is more official and regulated.

Will you still find those that are still willing to “colour outside the lines”?
I'd put money on that.

Travel safe, wherever you land.

EDIT;
From a friend who has used Wise for 8 years:

Wise card is better with ATM withdrawn and when our Aussies $$ high (like now) you can exchange and they keep that rates.. get the app too. They will tell you when/where you took money from what ATM. If you lose your physical card. You can trace it too. I've been using Wise card for the last 8yrs.. works perfectly 🙂

having Wise is like having your personal ATM card with you everywhere.. you can use it any ATM.. some may charge 5000 d**g extra (like 30 cents!).

20/01/2026

Planning to be here in the weeks before or after Tết?
The biggest takeaway is simple: this is not the time to wing it.

Accommodation, flights, transport need to be organised well in advance.

Tết is the most important time of the year.
Millions travel from the cities to their hometowns.
Millions more return from OS to be with family.
The scale of movement is enormous.
In terms of importance, it’s bigger than Christmas and New Year combined — and the energy's already building.

If you’re travelling around Tết, preparation matters.

It’s an incredibly social time of year.
There are constant gatherings, plenty of food and drink, and you’ll hear a lot of “một, hai, ba, dô” as people toast.
Traditional games such as bầu cua cá cọp — similar to Crown and Anchor — are played, and gambling enforcement is relaxed during the holiday, much like two-up on Anzac Day in Australia.

Tết Nguyên Đán, the Vietnamese Lunar New Year, follows the lunar calendar, so the dates shift each year.
In 2026, Tết falls on 17 February and marks the Year of the Horse.

Tết is about renewal, so you’ll see painting, deep cleaning and locals buying new things.
Local markets fill with pop-ups selling everything from clothes and shoes to household items and helmets.
The build-up is very busy.

People ask if it’s worth visiting Vietnam during Tết, and whether anything will be open.
The short answer is yes. You won’t struggle to find food or drink, especially in larger towns and tourist areas.
Many businesses now stay open, though some smaller family-run places close for a few days or apply a temporary holiday surcharge.

My wife and I own Heaven Garden Spa at An Bang Beach in Hoi An, and we will be closed during Tết, as staffing cost hikes make it prohibitive.

Smaller neighbourhood markets close briefly around Tết, but larger markets such as Tân An (Tiger Market) and the Central Market by the river continue operating to some degree.

Tết travel requires more planning, but you won’t be stuck with nothing to eat or drink.
It’s a fascinating time to be here — just make sure everything is in place well ahead of time.

Travel well, wherever you land.

Address

159 Nguyen Phan Vinh, An Bang Beach, Cam Ha Commune
Hoi An
560000

Telephone

+84702763199

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