07/10/2026
The Arctic.
It is...otherworldly...and it exudes a remote sense of wilderness from every shoreline...every fjord entrance and every glacier encrusted valley.
I don't think I have ever felt such distance from the rest of humanity as this time aboard MS Stockholm...a small vessel initially launched in 1953 to deliver supplies to distant lighthouses. Now exclusively used for Arctic tourism with just 6 guest cabins.
Longyearbyen...in Svalbard...population around 2500...was where it began. A flight from Oslo in Norway...a landing on a lonely icy runway...and a bus drive along an inhospitable looking rocky shore...we checked into the hotel...replete with a full taxidermed Polar Bear effigy glaring menacingly at all who entered reception.
We embarked on the charming MS Stockholm that next afternoon.
We explored and reveled in the extraordinarily soft Autumn light on a most arresting landscape. We walked up to Svalbard Reindeer on spongy tundra and photographed Walrus and Arctic Fox from our small expeditionary Zodiac inflatables. Western Spitsbergen is...simply put...beautiful.
We docked to refuel days later in Ny-Alesund...the earth's northern most permanent human settlement...now a research village of around 300 people...formerly a coal mining encampment and...in the 1920's...a springboard to a series of attempts at flying to and landing on the North Pole...including the famous Zeppelin flight by Amundsen.
The search for Polar Bears continued as we navigated around Spitsbergen towards a tiny archipelago known as the Seven Sisters. News from another vessel further north on the pack ice indicated that Polar Bear sightings were in short supply and hard weather was moving in. We decided to move south west between the east coast of Spitsbergen and the endless ice coated vastness of Nordaustland.
On the morning of the 1st of October the call came through from the bridge...Polar Bears...a female and her cub...this was followed by several jaw dropping engagements with the species over the days that followed. Four incredible sightings...six bears in total.
We found Bearded, Harbour, Ringed and Harp Seals...we encountered Orcas, S***m and Fin Whales and Humpbacks and...on the evening arriving adjacent to the Norwegian coast...the clouds parted...and the Aurora Borealis danced and swirled across the northern skies...we were spellbound...standing gazing heavenward in the frigid Arctic wind...overwhelmed by the sheer wonder of this harsh and yet stunning wildlife filled frontier.
Wish you were here.
RAE Safaris Michael Motsumi Rae