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I travel earth My name is Grzegorz [said as Jaa-gowsh], I’m an Earth Specialist for the company I started, iTravel.earth. Contact me. iTravel.earth: Citizen of the world.

Sometimes the "how" of travel can be much harder than the "where". Traveler of the earth.

STOPOVERSIf you are looking for massive galleries like the Met or the Louvre while staying in Sarandë, you will need to ...
06/23/2026

STOPOVERS

If you are looking for massive galleries like the Met or the Louvre while staying in Sarandë, you will need to adjust your expectations. This is primarily a coastal resort town. The cultural spaces here are small and boutique. However, there is one key cultural hub you must check out.

Meet the Art Saranda Gallery. You can find it right on the main seaside boulevard, Shëtitorja Naim Frashëri. It sits nestled right next to the Museum of Tradition. This is the premier visual art space in town.

The collection makes this intimate gallery incredibly special because it bridges two different worlds. It houses a permanent collection featuring works from both the socialist realism era and the modern period. The space serves as a visual time capsule. It allows you to see how the exact same local artists radically shifted their artistic styles overnight once the dictatorship fell. Suddenly, they were finally allowed to paint with complete freedom.

When you visit, you will find a creative mix of abstract sculptures, modern paintings, and historic sketches. This includes nineteenth century landscape drawings by the British poet and artist Edward Lear, who traveled extensively through Albania. The gallery also regularly cycles through temporary exhibitions that highlight modern local talent and international diaspora artists. It is a beautiful window into the soul of Albania.

PICTURED: Local Artist

Challenge Question: Can you name another country where the art scene completely transformed overnight due to a major political shift?



Grzegorz Bessmer | Earth Specialist | iTravel.earth
Citizen of the world. Traveler of the earth.

STOPOVERSEvery single day, Scott and I head down to the promenade in Sarandë. Sometimes we walk under the bright sun bet...
06/22/2026

STOPOVERS

Every single day, Scott and I head down to the promenade in Sarandë. Sometimes we walk under the bright sun between 1:00 PM and 2:00 PM. Very often, we venture out again during the cool evening hours. We love to watch the world go by.

As it turns out, we have been participating in an authentic Albanian tradition without even realizing it.

Locals call this the xhiro. It is an official evening stroll. In many towns across Albania, apartment blocks empty out around sunset. Everyone hits the main boulevard to walk, gossip, and catch up with friends. Some cities even close major roads to vehicles so pedestrians can completely rule the streets.

For us, these walks are all about observing the local life. We find the residents here to be true characters. We watch tourists wander in from the beach to buy souvenirs or grab food. We spot crowds fresh from massive cruise ships, marching through the streets behind guides holding giant flags.

Even the local animals have their own drama. Recently, we watched two street dogs work together to defend their territory from a newcomer. Right after the standoff, one of the resident dogs walked straight over to me. He gave me a look that clearly communicated I was safe and welcome in his zone.

Right now, Sarandë is a peaceful coastal town of about 35,000 residents. But change is coming fast. The streets are getting more crowded by the day. In just a few weeks, the peak summer season will swell this community to an astonishing 300,000 people. We are glad to experience the local magic before the grand rush begins.

POV Question: If your hometown closed its main street every night for a mandatory sunset walk with your neighbors, would you participate or stay inside?



Grzegorz Bessmer | Earth Specialist | iTravel.earth
Citizen of the world. Traveler of the earth.

TRUE NORTHWhy does Corfu have two different names?When you travel across Corfu, the road signs can confuse you. One sign...
06/21/2026

TRUE NORTH

Why does Corfu have two different names?

When you travel across Corfu, the road signs can confuse you. One sign points to Kerkyra while the next says Corfu. They refer to the exact same destination. Kerkyra comes from ancient Greek mythology, named after a nymph loved by Poseidon. Corfu is a western name from medieval times, meaning the city of the peaks.

Unwrapping the layered identity of a new location can feel overwhelming. Last weekend, Scott and I tried a tried and true strategy to get our bearings. We took Corfu's hop on hop off sightseeing bus. We chose the red line tour, which costs 22 dollars each for an all day pass. The audio headset provides local history in 10 different languages.

We found that this approach gives you an exceptional perspective of an island before you dive in with walking or renting a vehicle. The historical context you gain from a guided tour is an invaluable first step. Beyond the education, if you are tired or hot from the Mediterranean sun, it provides a perfect opportunity to cool down and rest while others teach you about the area.

Looking out from the top deck at the ancient fortresses made me think about our own lives. We often rush into new phases of life without taking the time to understand the landscape first. Taking a step back to observe from a higher viewpoint helps us navigate our next steps much better.

Challenge: Next time you arrive in a completely new city, skip the map apps for the first hour and take a local transit loop just to watch the city move.



Grzegorz Bessmer | Earth Specialist | iTravel.earth
Citizen of the world. Traveler of the earth.

OUT AND ABOUT: Nomad Burger's and SteaksI really dislike leaving less-than-stellar reviews, which is why I’ve put off wr...
06/20/2026

OUT AND ABOUT: Nomad Burger's and Steaks

I really dislike leaving less-than-stellar reviews, which is why I’ve put off writing this one for weeks. But after a recent Sunday afternoon discussion with friends about where to find an authentic burger in Sarandë, I realized I had to be honest about my experience.

As a beef-eating American, I admit I have high expectations. I’ve eaten burgers in a number of countries, and unfortunately, very few places in this region quite hit the mark. When numerous expats built up Nomad Burgers & Steaks as the absolute authority in town—insisting that this was the definitive place to go and twice telling me, "you have to try the onion rings"—I walked in hoping I had finally found "the one." I left still in search of it.

To be entirely fair, Nomad gets a great deal right. The atmosphere is perfect, the service is easily some of the best in the city, and the presentation of the food is beyond incredible. The team deserves full credit for creating a wonderful environment.

While a burger can be subjective, it was the onion rings that felt like a true miss.

For many years, I lived on the West Coast in California. In Malibu, there is a small dive bar called The Golden Bull. On any given day, you’ll find A-list celebrities seated right next to people who live on the beach in tents, and everyone is having a great time together. The great equalizer that united them all? The onion rings. They were fresh, beer-battered, piled sky-high, and literally melted in your mouth. I would gather a group on a lazy Sunday just to make the drive for those rings.

With that benchmark in mind, being handed a plate of heavy, cornmeal-coated onion rings did absolutely nothing for me. It made me wonder if they had simply run out that day and sourced a quick substitute from a corner market. Why the community raves over them is a mystery to me.

I know that delivering a less-than-perfect critique might risk my excommunication from the local expat club. But because the staff, the presentation, and the vibe were so genuinely exceptional, I felt a three-star rating was both fair and forgiving. The search for the ultimate burger continues.

06/20/2026

We had a day of exploring today. We plan to do some more of it tomorrow. It’s really easy to love this place!

OUT AND ABOUT: THE VANISHING CHARACTERS OF THE RIVIERAAs I prepare to exchange the promenade of Sarandë for the historic...
06/19/2026

OUT AND ABOUT: THE VANISHING CHARACTERS OF THE RIVIERA

As I prepare to exchange the promenade of Sarandë for the historic square of Old Town Kraków, I find myself reflecting on the daily rhythms of this coast. More than the landscapes, it is the local characters who define a place.

Take the man I call the Kayak Guy. Every single day, he takes up his post on the stone wall along the beach. Always clad in a wetsuit and dark sunglasses, he sits with a kayak gripped firmly in his hands, looking busy with what I assume is a rental business. If he is not actually renting them, he should be. He is just one thread in the social fabric here.

Back home in the US, we often complain about the daily grind and long workweeks. Trust me, we have no idea. One of the most striking observations here is the grueling work ethic. The very same individuals operate businesses from open to close, every single day. The cashier at the local grocery market is the exact same person greeting you at 9:00 AM on Monday and ringing you up at 10:00 PM on Saturday. It is a reality that feels both quaint and deeply sobering all at the same time.

In the off-season, Sarandë is an intimate community of about 35,000 residents where you can know just about everyone from end to end of the walk.

But summer changes the dynamic. The population swells to roughly 300,000 people. As global tourists stream in speaking foreign languages, the local presence becomes diluted. The familiar characters are still there, but they are now part of a massive international crowd. It makes for incredible people watching, but it completely alters the soul of the town. There is always something to see here, but the seasonal shift reminds us how deeply tourism shapes a community.

Challenge: Next time you travel, challenge yourself to step away from the main sights and spot three recurring local characters who define the neighborhood. Who is observant enough to notice these details on their next trip?



Grzegorz Bessmer | Earth Specialist | iTravel.earth
Citizen of the world. Traveler of the earth.

STOPOVERS: Sarandë's tale of an embarrassing historical blunder.This story is a reminder that no matter how much you try...
06/18/2026

STOPOVERS: Sarandë's tale of an embarrassing historical blunder.

This story is a reminder that no matter how much you try to orchestrate the perfect outcome, things rarely go off without a hitch.

Sarandë has a skeleton in its historical closet. During World War II, Benito Mussolini occupied Albania and decided this beautiful coastal city was going to be the glittering crown jewel of his new Mediterranean empire. He was so confident in his grand vision that he completely rebranded the city, renaming it "Porto Eda" in honor of his eldest daughter. He fully expected the name—and his legacy—to last for centuries.

The reality? The plan was a monumental flop. The Italian campaign quickly turned into an embarrassing mess, and the grand "Porto Eda" era ended almost as soon as it began. The very second the occupation ended, the locals practically grabbed their paintbrushes, scrubbed the dictator's daughter off the maps, and proudly went right back to calling their home Sarandë.

It’s an embarrassing joke that was entirely on the arrogant invaders. The city and its resilient people got the last laugh, preserving their true identity.
The best stories always come from the moments when the original script gets thrown completely out the window.

Challenge: Visitors to Sarandë, you get extra points if you have seen the Porto Eda reference on the Promenade in Sarandë and can post a photo of it here!



Grzegorz Bessmer | Earth Specialist | iTravel.earth
Citizen of the world. Traveler of the earth.

STOPOVERS: BEST HIDDEN OR SECRET BEACHES ON THE ALBANIAN RIVIERAForget crowded tourist traps. This list of 50 beaches fr...
06/17/2026

STOPOVERS: BEST HIDDEN OR SECRET BEACHES ON THE ALBANIAN RIVIERA

Forget crowded tourist traps. This list of 50 beaches from Vlorë to the Greek border combines famous spots with highly obscure coves. Use this as a guide for your mapping research.

Dafina (Karaburun) 2. Bristan (Karaburun) 3. Grama Bay (Vlorë) 4. Shën Vasili (Karaburun) 5. Loviz (Vlorë) 6. Sazan Island (Vlorë) 7. Radhimë (Vlorë) 8. Jonufra (Vlorë) 9. Orikum (Orikum) 10. Palasë (Palasë) 11. Dhërmi (Dhërmi) 12. Drymades (Dhërmi) 13. Shën Andreu (Dhërmi) 14. Gjipe (Gjipe) 15. Jal (Jal) 16. Akvariumi (Jal) 17. Livadh (Himarë) 18. Spile (Himarë) 19. Potam (Himarë) 20. Filikuri (Himarë) 21. Llaman (Himarë) 22. Qeparo (Qeparo) 23. Borsh (Borsh) 24. Kamena (Borsh) 25. Bunec (Piqeras) 26. Lukovë (Lukovë) 27. Lumra (Lukovë) 28. Shpella (Lukovë) 29. Kakome (Kakome) 30. Krorëz (Krorëz) 31. Portomano (Sarandë) 32. Plazhi i Ri (Sarandë) 33. Central (Sarandë) 34. Era (Sarandë) 35. Zero Zero (Sarandë) 36. Mango (Sarandë) 37. Flamingo (Sarandë) 38. Santa Quaranta (Sarandë) 39. Heaven (Sarandë) 40. VIP (Sarandë) 41. Manastir (Sarandë) 42. Pasqyrave (Sarandë) 43. Pulëbardha (Sarandë) 44. Pëllumbave (Sarandë) 45. Edon-Ri (Ksamil) 46. Bora Bora (Ksamil) 47. Lori (Ksamil) 48. Last Bay (Ksamil) 49. Three Islands (Ksamil) 50. Pema e Thatë (Border)

Coastal access changes quickly due to local development, so these locations require further investigation. If you need help mapping coordinates or finding boat routes, leave a comment below.

Challenge: How many of these 50 spots have you mapped out? Drop your count or ask about the hardest ones to reach below!



Grzegorz Bessmer | Earth Specialist | iTravel.earth
Citizen of the world. Traveler of the earth.

STOPOVERS: IS KSAMIL TOO CROWDED IN JULY AND AUGUST?Ksamil in July and August is a beautiful nightmare, and honestly, yo...
06/16/2026

STOPOVERS: IS KSAMIL TOO CROWDED IN JULY AND AUGUST?

Ksamil in July and August is a beautiful nightmare, and honestly, you might want to rethink your peak-summer booking entirely.

For the past month, I have witnessed Sarandë and Ksamil becoming more crowded by the day. On the Sarandë promenade, the foot traffic is climbing steadily, but so is the seasonal infrastructure built to capture it. Pop-up beach clubs, temporary lounges, and summer-only restaurants are appearing overnight along the shore, trying to keep pace with the massive influx.

The numbers are staggering. Sarandë’s permanent population sits around 35,000 residents, but in July and August, that number explodes to an estimated 300,000 people. Ksamil undergoes an even more drastic transformation, going from a sleepy village of 2,000 locals to an absolute sea of tightly packed sunbeds and high-decibel music.

The overall travel sentiment shows a major shift. Albania is an incredible success story, but it is quickly becoming a victim of that success. Travelers are actively debating whether the stunning Ionian waters are worth the peak-season chaos. Due to climbing prices, aggressive crowds, and intense heat, many are choosing to completely avoid Ksamil during these two peak months.

Instead, savvy travelers are rewriting their itineraries. Many are pivoting to quieter coastal pockets like Himarë, Borsh, or Dhërmi, which offer a more relaxed vibe. Others are splitting their time by escaping the coast entirely to explore the cooler, cobblestone streets of UNESCO towns like Gjirokastër and Berat, or heading up north to Shkodër and the rugged trails of the Albanian Alps. If you want the Riviera at its best, avoid the peak-summer stampede.

Poll: Would you brave the massive high-season crowds to see Ksamil's famous turquoise waters, or would you rather pivot to a quieter, hidden coastal village? Drop your vote below!



Grzegorz Bessmer | Earth Specialist | iTravel.earthCitizen of the world. Traveler of the earth.

Pictured: Greg Restaurant and Lounge, Ksamil -I couldn't resist!

OUT AND ABOUTThe Experience: We weren't hungry, but after a long walk, we stopped at "My Family" because of its glowing ...
06/15/2026

OUT AND ABOUT

The Experience: We weren't hungry, but after a long walk, we stopped at "My Family" because of its glowing reputation. Our friends Carolyn and Paul frequent this spot and rave about the Chicken Shish Kebap (Shishkebap P**e). We decided to share the Lazanja (Lasagna), which was absolutely delicious. We were also treated to a sample of Spinach Byrek—picture-perfect, wonderfully crisp, and bursting with fresh, high-quality ingredients (my only regret is not taking a photo!). Two complimentary glasses of Raki perfectly finished our meal. It was an incredibly memorable experience of authentic food and genuine hospitality.

Location: Sarandë, Albania (near the waterfront area).

Prices: Very affordable ($) – Large, protein-rich portions for an excellent price.

Establishment: A cozy, welcoming, family-run gem with a beautiful, unpretentious atmosphere that overlooks the scenic Sarandë shoreline.

Menu Highlights: Shishkebap P**e (Chicken Shish Kebap), Lazanja (Baked Lasagna), and local specialties like Lamb Yogurt Casserole and fresh shrimp linguine.

My Critique: Previous online reviews are completely spot-on. Diners consistently praise "My Family" for its massive portions and beautiful presentation made with love. What truly stands out is the unmatched hospitality—the family regularly surprises guests with complimentary treats like fresh bread, fruit, and raki. Every bite tastes incredibly fresh, offering a true taste of authentic Mediterranean comfort.

Bottom line: An absolute must-visit. Soulful food and exceptional hospitality make you feel like part of the family.

Do you know the difference between Spanakopita and Spinach Byrek?



Grzegorz Bessmer | Earth Specialist | iTravel.earthCitizen of the world. Traveler of the earth.

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