09/23/2026
A great day on the Via Francigena!
Today, during our Via Francigena journey from Siena to Orvieto, we had a very special opportunity.
Thanks to Signora Vanna, who keeps the keys to the little Church of Saints James and Christopher beside the Grancia di Cuna, we were able to step inside and discover a remarkable piece of medieval pilgrimage history.
On its walls, centuries-old frescoes still tell stories that would have been immediately familiar to medieval pilgrims. Among them is the Miracle of the Hanged Pilgrim, one of the most famous legends associated with the Camino de Santiago. Beneath the image of Saint James, accompanied by Saint Ansanus, two painted scenes recount the miraculous story of the young pilgrim who was unjustly hanged and kept alive through the protection of St James.
It is fascinating to find such a strong connection with Santiago here on the Via Francigena. But in the Middle Ages these great pilgrimage routes were never isolated from one another. Pilgrims travelled across Europe towards Rome, Santiago and other holy destinations, sharing roads, stories and devotions along the way. Saint James, the great symbol of the pilgrim to Compostela, and Saint Christopher, traditionally invoked as the protector of travellers, could hardly be more fitting patrons for a church standing beside a medieval pilgrim hospital on this ancient road.
And history did not end with the Middle Ages.
Vanna and Signora Anna Maria also brought Cuna to life for us with their memories of growing up here in the 1950s and 60s. They remembered a time when the parish priest ran a little village bar and had the only television for miles around. In the evenings, local families would gather together to watch it, turning this tiny place once again into a meeting point for the community.
Medieval pilgrims, ancient frescoes, memories of village life and two wonderful local storytellers: days like this are exactly why we love walking the Via Francigena.
https://www.spanishsteps.com/our-trips/via-francigena-siena-orvieto/