29/07/2026
Reinhold Messner (born September 17, 1944, in South Tyrol) is widely regarded as one of the greatest mountaineers in history. Raised in the Dolomites, he developed his climbing skills from a young age under the guidance of his father.
Messner revolutionized high-altitude climbing by championing Alpine style using lightweight equipment, minimal support, and often climbing without supplemental oxygen. His greatest achievements include:
First ascent of Nanga Parbat via the Rupal Face in 1970, though his brother Günther died during the descent.
First ascent of an 8,000-meter peak without supplemental oxygen on Gasherbrum I (1975).
First ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen (1978, with Peter Habeler).
First solo ascent of Everest without supplemental oxygen (1980), via a new route on the North Face.
First person to climb three 8,000-meter peaks in a single season (1982).
First traverse of Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II without returning to base camp (1984).
First person to climb all 14 of the world's 8,000-meter peaks (1986), many by new routes and without oxygen.
Beyond mountaineering, Messner:
Crossed Antarctica via the South Pole on foot without animals or machines (1989–90).
Completed a solo trek across the Gobi Desert (2004).
Founded several mountain museums in northern Italy.
Served in the European Parliament (1999–2004), focusing on environmental issues.
Messner's bold, minimalist approach and pioneering achievements transformed modern high-altitude mountaineering and established him as one of the sport's greatest legends.
